Marz installs seamless floors that can be made of epoxy, methacrylate or polyurethane or urethane modified products.

  1. EPOXY is used on concrete where tile might commonly be used such as kitchens, restaurants, Deli’s, Meat departments, food prep areas, showers, locker rooms, etc…The great thing about epoxy is that grout lines, common with tile are eliminated. The epoxy can be troweled up walls (usually 4” to 6”) creating an impervious surface that doesn’t allow bacteria and dirt to accumulate.  It’s liquid applied meaning the whole floor ends up being one solid piece!
  2. METHACRYLATE, otherwise known as MMA or Acrylic, is about the same as epoxy but cures in one hour.  Best used in a place that may require a quick turnaround time.
  3.  POLYURETHANES can be used on a wood deck for instance to keep water from penetrating below.  It is softer and allows more movement than epoxy.

PARKING GARAGE WEARING SURFACES keep water out of the deck and keep the surface of the concrete in good shape.  Outdoor garages need something flexible and UV resistant, so Mike recommends Polyurethane.  It is highly recommended to have delaminations repaired before this coating goes on. Sealing of pipes and other protrusions through the slab deck should be looked into first as well.  In areas of high traffic epoxy or methacrylate, (MMA, Acrylic), should be considered. These are harder and therefore withstand the abuse of tire scrubbing through a turn radius or high traffic area.

DELAMINATION REPAIR: this is what you might end up doing if you don’t take the precaution of protection your concrete slab with a deck coating or sealer. Water enters  the slab through cracks and brings along salts and other contaminates that seriously rust structural steel.  When this steel rusts  it actually gets larger, swells and pushes the top or bottom layer of concrete off the surface.  So, what was once a 4” thick slab may become a 2” thick slab (or less) with steel support that is thinner than it was when new. Have you heard of forklifts, cars or people falling through a deck?  It does happen.Delamination repair takes place to restore the slab to near original condition.  Doing it right requires removing loose concrete to ¼” below rebar and beyond rust at the edges.  Rebar is sandblasted, a zinc rich primer is applied.  The edge of the patch gets sawcut ¼” deep and chipped out.  The patch is then blown out or vacuumed clean and the patch materials are installed.  Marz prefers using Methacrylate Mortar to patch back with for various reasons.

SEISMIC JOINTS are installed for help with expansion and contraction of large concrete structures.  Mike Meidling has installed these “rubber accordions” at the Spokane International Airport, Microsoft Lake Sammamish, Spokesman Review, Helena Montana parking garage, etc.

SLAB STABILIZATION is necessary when a slab on grade is rocking or moving and has become undermined.  This can be hard on forklifts and operators as they move across the slab across joints.  Marz drills many holes on each side of the joint and pumps or feeds soil stabilizing materials to give the slab some underlying support.  The joint can then be repaired with a semi-rigid epoxy for instance.

EPOXY OR FOAM INJECTION is for cracks usually in walls that have begun to leak water.  The crack is cleaned, a surface sealer applied and  allowed to cure overnight, then epoxy is forced or injected into this crack to “weld” the wall together again.  This is also good for columns and beams to restore their structural integrity.  Foam can be used where water is present or running or where there is a lot of movement such as a joint.

BELOW GRADE WATERPROOFING is recommended when building a new house to keep water out in the first place, (see epoxy injection).  Marz recommends using something that is flexible and can bridge small cracks when applied.  This is thicker than a “damp proofing” that is sprayed on and merely makes your concrete wall look black.  We apply a thick membrane that can be sprayed rolled or troweled on.  This requires grinding off high spots, detailing the foundation joint and removing all form ties.  It costs more than a thin coating but is more reliable in waterproofing a foundation.

SUMP PUMP INSTALLATION:  When the water table in your area reaches the basement or elevator pit slab height you might see water or moisture coming up through cracks in the slab or at the wall/floor junction.  This calls for a section of concrete to be removed and dirt excavated from beneath the slab to about 2 ½ feet in depth.  This creates a low spot for water to collect before it reaches the surface of the slab.  A perforated basket is installed in this pit with rock surrounding it.  Concrete is poured around this pit which fits flush with the surrounding surface.  Water can then collect here and is pumped out of the building with an industrial grade unit.  Hopefully gravel is present below your slab to allow water to travel to the pump, or “French Drain” may need to be installed below your slab to allow water travel.